Half Canvas or Full Canvas?
We often get asked and think, “should I opt for a half canvas suit jacket, sport coat, dinner jacket, or tuxedo, or full canvas?”
The answer to the question is relatively simple, how picky are you about how well the jacket fits you? If you’re very picky, then you definitely want to opt for a full canvas. If you are less, picky, and are only particular about how the chest takes your shape over time, then opt for a half canvas.
Let’s first understand what a canvas is, then we can look at how and why it matters whether you select half or full.
A canvas is the interfacing that goes inside of a suit jacket, overcoat/topcoat, sport jacket, dinner jacket/tuxedo, blazer, etc. It sits between the lining of the jacket and the outer/shell material (ie: the wool, linen, cotton, cashmere, velvet, etc). If it is a canvas of good quality, it will generally be made out of horsehair or a combination of cotton and horsehair. The horsehair is what helps the canvas take your shape over time.
Half canvas jackets will generally only have what is called a “chest piece” and then canvas around the lapels. If sewn correctly, you will have what is called, or known as, a “rolling lapel”. This is generally only achieved when a suit jacket is handmade or handsewn.
The chest piece will mold to your body and chest as you wear the jacket more often. Generally, by the third or forth wear, the suit jacket will be at its optimal fit, provided that you have not changed shape or have not gained/lost weight.
Full canvas jackets will have canvas going from the shoulder line, all the way down the jacket, ensuring that the jacket shapes your torso as well as it possibly can. The most premium suits will generally be fully canvassed. The benefit of a fully canvassed jacket is that the more you wear it, the more it looks like it was made only for you. The comfort, the feel, the fit, and of course the look, will be quite different from a jacket that was fused (which we do not recommend whatsoever) or a jacket that is half canvassed.
Beyond choosing a half or full canvas, we also offer
handmade and
handsewn canvasses. Yes, they are both quite different!
Click here to understand the differences between the two.
